Hello, my little Kumquats!
Today's tutorial is based on a character from the movie Barbarella - i can't for the life of me find any still photos of this woman but she had a shaved head with a feathered head-dress, and makeup which made her look rather bird-like.
This sort of look fits my features perfectly, what with my very beak-like nose and penetrating (some might say "creepily intense", ahem) eyeballs...
What i tried to achieve here is that unmistakable 1960s heavy-eye and nude-lip thing with a stylized fantasy twist. Like, y'know - Barbarella.
I'll go through each step in as much detail as possible and list all products used as i go along.
For this look, i used a combination of high-end and Indie brands i have tried and can recommend wholeheartedly for their quality, pigmentation and just general coolness factor. As an Indie perfumer myself, I highly encourage the support of Indie cosmetics companies - there are definitely a few good ones out there and i will eventually get to all my favourites on this blog.
Creepy, penetrating gaze
So to begin, the first thing i do - as always - is start with the eyes. As i mentioned in my last post, i like to keep foundation/blush/powder as the very last step in the process, as i don't like having to clean up fallout from the eyeshadow and reapply foundation/concealer. It's a waste of time, and creates an un-necessary step. However, for this look i actually wanted some fallout from the browbone/highlight colour so i concealed well under and around my entire eye area, just carefully brushing off any dark shadow that fell (which was barely any) and leaving the highlight fallout alone.
Before i apply any shadow, i prime the eyelids with my trusty Urban Decay Primer Potion. This step is essential; it keeps the shadow and liner in place all day, as well as intensifying the pigment of your colours. It is especially important when working with loose pigment, which i did today.
After applying the primer, i drew in my brows - because they are so blonde and sparse as to be practically invisible. I actually removed the pencil i used after getting all the shadow on and applied a darker shade; because i decided impulsively that the pencil i used was too ORANGE, plus i wanted a stronger brow. So then of course i had to re-apply the under-brow highlight shade and re-conceal above my brows.
I do not recommend this o_O.
Moving on, i used the lightest shade from the Chanel Prelude quad - but any very light, off-white shade will work - preferably with some lustre as this look is extremely high-gleam :).
Next, i used a medium-shade of cool taupe in the crease - the third-darkest shade in the Prelude quad was used here.
Chanel Prelude - i used the top two shades
To achieve the crease, use a medium dome-brush, starting at the bridge of the nose and working outward in a C-shape towards the outer corner of the eye. Blend in with windshield-wiper motion with a large domed brush to soften.
Then, i used Urban Decay's Maui Wowie on the lid up to the crease, patting the colour in with a medium lay down-brush.
Maui Wowie by Urban Decay in the NYC palette. It's the colour underlined in red
Then, blend again.
Finally, i swept Sponge from Black Rose Minerals under the brows and above the crease - and as a highlight on the very tops of the cheekbone. This sort of ties the whole look together - with its super-visible shine and gorgeous, almost metallic gleam. Generally i am not a fan of loose pigment shadows because of all the fallout. BUT. I am a big fan of her colours, and have no problem making an exception to the rule where her products are concerned.
Plus - they are, i believe, almost all lip-safe as well, and can be used anywhere on the face. What's not to love about that? And for a look like this, fallout is actually preferable from this gorgeous high-beam colour. It adds to the sort of 1960s-version-of-futuristic thing i've got going on.
Sponge - Black Rose Minerals
1. Sponge , BRM
2. Medium-taupe from Prelude, Chanel
3. Maui Wowie, UD
I don't actually have all the shadows listed ON my eye in this photo, just the taupe - this is just a handy guide as to what i did next.
As the last step of for the eyes, we have the liner. Generally i'd recommend using a liquid liner for this, but i wanted to see, just for shits-and-giggles, how a cream-gel liner (in a pot, not pencil) would work. I used MAC's Added Goodness for this. It was definitely a bit more challenging and not as convenient as a liquid pen or brush liner, but it did the trick.
Crappy liner diagram
In this photo, you can see all the shadows at work here - check out that high-beam shine from Black Rose Minerals' Sponge! SO MUCH 1960's futuristic goodness.
In this diagram, i try to show you how i applied the liner. To achieve a good wing, i began with the purple line (which of course wasn't actually purple...er), placing my brush at the very outer-corner and drawing outward. Next, i drew the along the red line on top, again moving outward and connecting the two lines to create the V.
On the bottom lid, i started at the inner-corner moving outward - drawing a nearly straight line under the eye so the line touches the lower lid at the centre, and leaves a bit of space at the ends.
Now that we're done with the eyes (and i've succeeded in thoroughly confusing you with diagrams and lists), i cleaned up any unwanted fallout and applied my foundation. For this look i used Rouge Bunny Rouge in Coconut Parfait, which is a bit on the sheer side, to give a more modern feel to the look as opposed to the typical 1960s pan-makeup thing. This let my skin show through a bit, just diffusing out any imperfections.
Next i applied blush, using Lilith by Detrivore Cosmetics. Now, Lilith might look like a scarily-bright, sparkly purple-with-silver-shimmer loose blush in the pot to some. However, on the skin it is so sheer and pretty - more lilac-pink than purple - and it's so finely milled and beautifully pigmented that it's almost impossible to overdo it!
Lilith blush by Detrivore Cosmetics
I applied the blush to the apples of the cheek, sweeping it up and around in a C-shape to the temples to give a pretty flush. I love the way these blushes go on - the sheerness and buildability of this colour is to die for.
Helpful blush diagram o_O
It's really staring to come together, now!
Lastly, we have the lips. Now, i'm all for retro- 1960s pale lips - but on me, if i go TOO pale, i look like i have leprosy. Or something bad that you wouldn't want on your face. Whatever.
I DID want to keep the lips pale with just a barest touch of pink - and for that i used my Precious, Blush Nude by Tom Ford. This colour...i just - i can't even.
YES it's an expensive lipstick and YES i am utterly ashamed of myself. Except i'm not. Let's face it - ALL makeup is a non-essential item, so all of the money we spend on it is frivolous, superfluous and un-necessary.
Unless you're a makeup-addict, in which case it's totally necessary and we must have it, have it now! *crushes fist into palm*
I began by blending a bit of my foundation into my lips, then lining with a light shade - Chanel Clair - which is actually the eyeliner i used on my waterline here as well (which i totally forgot to mention - shhhh). And using this pale, peachy shade to create a bit of fullness on the lip, i committed the massive makeup faux pas of lining outside my lip-line.
*waits for fainting and gasps to subside*
Except here's a little secret for you - it's NOT a makeup no-no if you use a fleshy shade lighter than your natural lips. This actually creates a slight highlight around the lip-line, which creates the illusion of fullness. Combined with the Blush Nude, it looks very pretty indeed.
Lip-liner faux pas - oh, horrors!
and, all the pretty
So, there you have it! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial as much as i enjoyed doing it - it was fun walking around all day in bird-girl mode, even if i only ventured as far as the refrigerator with it on.
If you enjoyed this look, please follow/like/share what-have-you. It gives me warm fuzzies.
Thanks, and i'll see you soon!