Thursday, July 11, 2013

American Woman - EOTD

Inspired by all the Red, White and Blue looks from last week, i busted out the sparkly gold and blue shadows and threw on a red top (i know my white bra-straps are showing. It's patriotic. It's fine).
 I wasn't particularly inspired to do one ON the 4th, which is also fine.
And i skipped the requisite red lip, which is just pure contrariness on my part because i do like a nice red lip on occasion...

But it's fine!

This was a fun look to do - i actually had enough time this morning (which is fairly miraculous) to play with colour under my eyes for a change.  
A word about that - i often will skip any under-eye shadow and liner during the weekday.  The short explanation for that is time-constraint - but also, lining under the eyes can be a tricky thing for women in their 40s.  Overdo it just a bit and it can be incredibly aging and "Sunset Boulevard".
I'm ready for my close-up, Mr. DeMille!
However, keeping the area light - with maybe a light peach in the waterline and close to the lashes - can really open up the eyes and make them look youthful and awake. 

And who doesn't want that? 

Plus it cuts down on your makeup routine when it's 6 am and you're pre-coffee and in a terrible rush (it seems i'm always in a terrible rush weekday mornings...).

The downside being it can - and does - really limit one's look.  
I think the key to keeping the under-eye look interesting but not aging for women in their 40s and over is to limit the use of harsh blacks and obvious glitter or frost under the eyes, at least during the day.  
There's something about black under the eyes (especially if you're also using it on the waterline) that can emphasize undereye circles and fatigue - while glitter/frost can bring attention to deeper lines around the eyes. 
Now, i don't have any super-deep or noticable lines around my eyes at this stage (except when i smile. I really should stop doing that), but i do have Those Days. 
Those Days being the days when i'm sick with the Autoimmune bollocks, or have had a cumulative 4 hours of sleep in two days.  It doesn't matter how youthful and cared-for your skin is - if you're over 35 and are ill or sleep-deprived, your eye-area is going to look older.  
On days like that, i tend to keep the under-eye clean, taking care to use an illuminator over my concealer (i'm a die-hard YSL Touche Eclat devotee, although i'm getting into the Kevin Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer a bit now, too), and a subtle peach - NOT white - liner on my waterline.  

But on good days, like today, i like enjoy using liner/shadow under my eyes very much!  
I just follow a couple guidelines that i think are appropriate for eyes-over-35.  
I tend to go no darker/harsher than dark brown or grey (unlike my upper-lid, where i enjoy nothing more than a good, black black cat eye). I use a good concealer and highlighting product to keep the area bright.  
And I blend, blend, BLEND!

For this look, i used only three eyeshadows and two eyeliners.  

Over the entire lid from lash-to-browbone, i used a pale, sheer, luminous off-white shadow.  The Chanel Prelude Quad has a perfect highlighting colour; Stila's Kitten and Inglot's #393 work equally well.  
Then from lash-to-crease i patted on Maui Wowie from the Urban Decay palette UD <3 NYC,  which is a lovely gold with a hint of green undertone and diffuse glitter.  
I then lined the upper lashline with Urban Decay 24/7 eyeliner in Demolition.
Finally, underneath the eye (diffusing/blending it out) i used Aquarius, also from the UD <3 NYC palette, lining with UD 24/7 eyeliner in Junkie on the waterline and right into the lashline - thickening it out a little at the outer corners. 
I know the big trend now is to say the 24/7 eyeliners are "over-rated" - however i still really like them.  They glide on super-smoothly, don't drag at the lids at all - which is REQUISITE for aging lids.  
There will be none of that raking-the-eyeliner-across-the-lashline, like when you were a kid and lit up your Maybelline Black liner with a lighter before you dragged it across your squinting, wincing eyeball.  
And they stay put.  The only issue for me, as with almost every eyeliner on the planet, is they can fade a bit in the corners after a few hours.  But only in the very corners, and only a little bit.  You can see from the photos how smooth the line is.  If you aren't comfortable with liquid liners, this pencil is pretty damn good.  And they have a couple very deep blacks - Zero and Perversion

For the rest of the face, i kept it simple with my current go-to daytime Rouge Bunny Rouge Milk Aquarelle foundation in Coconut Milk - which leans a bit neutral even though it says it's for cool, pink ultra-fair complexions.  In reality,  it actually has quite a bit of yellow (although Almond Milk is extremely yellow in comparison).  In the summer, i can get away with the bit of yellow, because it helps to counteract the rosy (beet-like) tones the sun brings out in my skin.  In the winter, i'm far too pale to get away with that yellowy undertone - but for now it's fine.

It's FINE!!

Next, comes my go-to daytime blush, also by RBR, in Delicata.  Again, another perfect colour for we ultra-pale girls who want a bit of a natural, peachy glow but find bronzer to be too...bronzer-y and fake-looking.
I lined my lips with Chanel's Praline D'or lipliner (i really need to branch out in the nude lipliner department, i know - i know...); my lipstick is MAC's Creamsheen in Creme Cup - one of my all-time favourite pinky-nudes. 

A list of all products used for this look -

Urban Decay Primer Potion
Chanel brow pencil in Blonde Clair (i really must replace this with something less bloody orange)
Chanel Prelude eyeshadow quad - the lightest colour
Urban Decay eyeshadows - Maui Wowie and Aquarius
UD 24/7 eyeliners in Demolition and Junkie
Sephora black mascara

Rouge Bunny Rouge Milk Aquarelle foundation in Coconut foundation Milk
RBR powder blush in Delicata
Trish McEvoy Translucent loose powder

Chanel lipliner in Praline D'or
MAC Creamsheen lipstick in Creme Cup

Thank you so much for reading, and i hope you enjoyed today's EOTD!  
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The Painted Lily

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